Once in awhile a new client and I are discussing their skin and I am asked if product alone is really going to make any difference. It is a fair question. Many of us (me included) have spent years, money, and time trying to curate the ideal skin care system that delivers noticable changes. Instead of focusing on claims and promises of these various products, I have learned it matters more to find the ingredients that work the best to improve the skin. The quality of the ingredients and how they are delivered make a difference in their efficacy also. Antioxidants are an important addition to skin health as they help to neutralize the free radicals in the skin. These unstable molecules cause cellular damage in the skin which, combined with the damage from UV, lead to premature skin aging. Enjoy a cup of (green) tea and read on as you consider adding the following five antioxidants to your skin care.

Vitamin A

The active forms of Vitamin A that are found in our bodies and that can be used in skin care are known as retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid. Collectively these are referred to as retinoids. This antioxidant is a fat-soluble vitamin that affects skin's sebum production, cell reproduction, and is an anti-inflammatory. Some are introduced to this ingredient as part of a acne treatment plan, but it has benefits for all skin conditions. The prescription strength form of Vitamin A was discussed in detail in last month's article. To learn more about tretinoin, please click here. One important note, Vitamin A should not to be used as part of oral or topical treatments by women planning to become pregnant or that are pregnant. 

According to John Kulesza of Young Pharmaceuticals, a leading industry consultant and formulating scientist, retinoids "reduce atypical cell formation, cause more collagen and vascular formation, and thicken the basal cell layer while thinning the stratum corneum." In other words, reduce skin damage, improve the look of lines and wrinkles, all while helping the skin have more "plumpness" and glow. This is where the effectiveness of this ingredient matters. There are types of retinoids that don't penetrate the skin well. Products with this type of retinoid may not have the benefits for skin. They are not all created equal. 

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is like bubble wrap for our skin cells. It protects them and keeps them healthy. In her career working with medically-supervised skin care products.You want your Vitamin C to be safe and in a stable form to get the most benefit from it. It is an expensive ingredient to work with, the price you are paying for your Vitamin C product can be an indication of what you are getting. 

The old adage "you get what you pay for" certainly applies to Vitamin C. Look for L-ascorbic or THD Ascorbate as one of the top ingredients in your Vitamin C product. These forms of Vitamin C can penetrate the skin and deliver stable levels of this antioxidant. Vitamin C reduces one of the most harmful free radicals in skin, reactive oxygen species (ROS). This antioxidant also works to inhibit melanin. "Vitamin C is a wonderful skin brightener," says Mandy, the aesthetic nurse at Vanguard Plastic Surgery & Aesthetics.

Vitamin E

This oil-soluble antioxidant is a nourishing ingredient. It works as an anti-inflammatory and helps to improve the skin's moisture barrier. Alone it also works to reduce free radical damage and improves the look of the signs of photo-damage (lines and wrinkles, in particular).Partnered with Vitamin C, it makes Vitamin C less acidic. This makes Vitamin C more tolerable to use while the combination of these two antioxidants also help the skin cells as a whole. Vitamin C is water-soluble (hydrophilic) and Vitamin E is fat-soluble (lipophilic). Used in conjunction, these two vitamins help both areas of a skin cell, the water and the oil sections as Vitamin C removes the ROS attacking the skin cells so that Vitamin E can protect the cell. Vitamin E is commonly listed as tocopherol. This is the only form of Vitamin E that has been identified as meeting human requirements by the National Institutes of Health (NIH). 

Ferulic Acid

This antioxidant rounds out the trio of vitamins that work even better together, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and ferulic acid. By itself, ferulic acid holds the same benefits of any antioxidant; minimizes free radicals, reducing lines and wrinkles, and is an anti-inflammatory. Used with Vitamins C and E, ferulic acid has been shown to enhance the other two antioxidants potency by stabilizing these two vitamins. This plant-based antioxidant is the supporting role in any good antioxidant skin care regimen. It is good on it's own, but it the ultimate team player when added to C and E. We have three products at clara containing this magical trio - Regenerate Moisturizer, Bright CEF Serum, and Skinceuticals C E Ferulic (in-store only).

Green Tea

This antioxidant is part of a group of antioxidants called polyphenols. These plant derived vitamins are thought to have anti-inflammatory and benefits. According to John Kulesza of Young Pharmaceuticals, "green tea is a free-radical scavenger, it seeks these out in the skin. It reduces inflammation, offers some photo protection, and is an immune modulator." The antioxidants in green tea come the catechins. One particular catechin you may have heard about is EGCG or Epigallocatechin gallate. Some of the most interesting studies being conducted on EGCG and the skin involve its role in reducing bacterial acne, moisture retention in skin, and how it could treat some types of rosacea. At clara, we like the idea of green tea as part of a comprehensive skin care routine. So much so, we offer a makeup line that has green tea as a key ingredient in most products - Glo Skin Beauty. (We also offer many delicious options of green tea to sip as you have your skin consultation or treatment at Vanguard Plastic Surgery & Aesthetics).

Some of these antioxidants work great alone (looking at you, Vitamin C!), others as part of a combination of antioxidants. A healthy diet helps give us the nourishment and help from the inside and the right products help on the outside. Skin is our barrier and protector from the stresses of the environment. Why not give it a helping hand by including clean, active antioxidants to your skin care? Come see us for a complimentary skin consultation to figure out what may be missing from your skin routine. Schedule by calling 719-579-5555. Now excuse me, I suddenly have a taste for some berries, a cup of matcha, an orange, and some almonds!